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George du Maurier based large parts of Trilby on his experiences as a student in Parisian Bohemia during the 1850s. The female counterparts have been closely connected with the Grisettes, young women who combined part-time prostitution with various other occupations. The Bohemian style has achieved global popularity, appealing to individuals seeking an individualistic approach to fashion and lifestyle. There’s no wrong way to do it; as long as you feel like yourself, you’re doing it right.
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With similar lack of inhibition, as early as 1907 the American heiress Natalie Barney (1875–1972) was leading like-minded women in sapphic dances in her Parisian garden, photographs of which look little different from scenes at Woodstock in 1969 and other “pop” festivals of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Among female Bohemians in the early 20th century, the “gypsy look” was a recurring theme, popularized by, among others, Dorothy “Dorelia” McNeill (1881–1969), muse, lover, and second wife of the painter Augustus John (1878–1961), whose full skirts and bright colors gave rise to the so-called “Dorelia look”. Developments in the late 1960s and 1970s, when the strictures of the code were abandoned, followed a similar pattern, although, by then, it was often women themselves who were in the vanguard of resistance to sexualized imagery. Whereas the sort of scanty lingerie on show in some earlier productions (for example, Joan Blondell and Barbara Stanwyck in Night Nurse, 1931) had tended to reflect trends that, in the 1920s, defied convention and were regarded by many young women as liberating, by the early years of the Depression such displays came to be regarded quite widely as undesirable. More generally, the adoption by the American movie industry of the Hays Production Code in the early 1930s had a significant effect on how moral, and especially sexual, issues were depicted on film.
